Friday, September 5, 2008

Home Again

And so, we're home at last.  After 2 700-mile days, right through the rains of Gustav, we were very relieved to arrive here.

But what a wonderful trip it was!  We learned so much about the northwestern part of this amazing country.  We enjoyed so much beauty.  We learned and experienced so much geology, paleontology, and the flora and fauna.  I think of the geothermal power in Yellowstone; the sad remains of the glaciers in Glacier National. Park; the huge floods that caused Dry Falls; my eye-to-eye contact with the buffalo and seeing the wonderful Stag; the grandeur of Mt. Ranier; the salmon going up the weirs in Seattle.  Even the baseball game with Charlie and Robin (thanks, you guys, for getting me out of that little childish box!).

Wow!  It was great!  We have learned to avoid flying anywhere (except across the ocean).  It's too much trouble and you miss the countryside!  We have learned that we are too old for 700-mile days!  We have a new appreciation for the American West. 

We are so thankful that we were able to make this trip.  Now we're home and I'm facing hundreds of pictures that have to be weeded through!  No pleasure without pain.  ;-)

I hope you've enjoyed sharing this wonderful trip with us.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

September 2: Wyoming Again


We started the morning in Pocatello, Idaho, and moved into Wyoming almost without notice. Rolling hills, no hills, lots of sage brush, irrigated fields. It is easy to know where the water is—it's green. Everything else in barren. But then we had an adventure!

Eons ago, in the Eocene Period, a large area of Wyoming was a large, shallow lake, with conditions much like South Florida, but minus the retirees and Cubans, of course. Crocodiles, sting rays, snakes, turtles, bats, tropical plants, frogs, small mammals, and fish abounded. As they died, they fell to the bottom of the lake, and sediment quickly covered them.

Live was wetter then, and the climate more temperate. Years passed, and the animal and plant remains were pressed deeper and deeper into the silt. But change is always inevitable, so a few million years later, Fossil Butte is all that is left of their happy little world. And Wyoming is high and dry—subject, of course, to the effects of global warming.  So, visit while you can.

Seriously, there is an excellent Visitor Center with many good pictorial and other exhibits, including a good film. This site is well worth visiting.

As we continued through the wastelands of Wyoming, we saw a huge limestone quarry, accompanied by the requisite cement processing plant.  This area probably provides cement for the entire northwest, since so much of the rock there is basalt and granite and the like.  We also passed some oil/gas pumping places.  

In some ways, rural Wyoming is like Appalachia, without all the trees and bushes to cover all the worn out cars and tractors and machinery of all kinds.  The towns we passed through had anywhere from 200 to the big metropolis of Laramie, some 20,000.  We're sleeping here tonight. The homogenization of America is complete, depending on the size of towns. Some rate a Home Depot and these usually have Ace Hardware, beauty shops, taverns, gas stations, and flower shops. The population of smaller towns could almost be determined by seeing what amenities they have.  Towns under 400, for example, never have flower shops and may have only one tavern! We're enjoying this slice of Americana.  I'll never feel the same way about the far west. I think I've gained at least a little appreciation of who populates these landscapes, from lovely farm and ranch land to desert wastes.  I'm not planning to move here; I'm not that intrepid!

We ended the day with finishing our quatrain began in Yellowstone:
Oh give me a home where the buffalo roam.
Today we saw places:
Where the deer and the antelope play.
Saw lots of antelope enjoying the ranch grasslands.

It's a great trip, but we are getting tired. The next two days will be homeward bound—I think about 700 miles a day.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Goodbye Washington - Hello Ore-Ida




August 31-September 1

As we head toward Oregon, we head into a different Washington.  The Northern Cascades seem to divide the state into the Pacific Northwest and the Northwest.  Here in the Northwest, we are again seeing some mountains, but more giant rolling hills beneath the ever-growing sky.  There are some ranches and, increasingly, more farms and orchards.  The hills are tawny and dry, and the valleys are rich and green.  Because of the prehistoric floods, this area is known for its excellent soil, but it seems to be very dependent upon irrigation from the rivers.  I doubt that much agriculture, except perhaps ranching could survive without it.  As we cross the Snake River, joining the Columbia, we see more grain facilities.  Some have great pyramids of wheat.  Fertile country indeed—as long as you have water.

But the Pacific Northwest has been our favorite part of this great state. How we enjoyed lounging beside large windows in "Vaughan Lodge" (built on a hill and surrounded by forest) loving the tall trees, the wide variety of birds, and watching for the Douglas Squirrel, who has the coloration of a robin.  Charlie and Robin are great hosts.  Then there is the beauty all around Seattle:  the sea, Puget Sound, ridge after ridge of mountains, some covered with evergreen forest, others above timberline, all presided over by the magnificent Mount rainier.  Even the city skyline is beautiful. We have tremendously enjoyed being here.

The deeper we go (at least on this route!) into Oregon, and then Idaho, the more desert appears.  We see rolling hills of nothing but sage brush, framed by rather high, barren cliffs.  

There is little traffic, and the towns range from small to über small.  I notice that all seem to have storage facilities, beauty shops, flower shops, and hardware stores.  If one of those is missing, it is really small—like under 1000 people.  Ace Hardware is faithfully present, even when the town is lucky enough to be small enough not to have a Walmart!

We slept in Pendleton, Oregon the first night, and our first stop that morning was the Pendleton Mill.  It was Labor day, so there were no tours, but the store was open.  Lovely shopping for both of us!  I now have a winter suit that doesn't shout, "Talbots!" and Don found some things he wanted as well.  A very satisfying stop for both of us.

In the late afternoon we came to a place called Craters of the Moon. It's a National Monument.  It is essentially the remains of volcanic action.  Cinder cones can be seen here and there, but most impressive is that most of it is covered in a black lava flow, and there are great amounts of volcanic ash (pumice). The moon isn't black, and this place is, but is other-worldly.  Huge chunks of ash lie everywhere.  It is like being in a giant bed of ashes after the fire has gone out.  It is a veritable wasteland of black matter, but we see life in the forms of plants like Sage Brush, Limber Pines, and a surprisingly large number of wildflowers.

As we approach the east, I am happy to report that we have won the long-distance license plate award.  We have seen one car from Boston and one from Florida, and that was in Yellowstone. So we claim the prize!

One oddity: As we drove through rural Oregon, nothing but a few farms around, we realized we were on a marked evacuation route.  Evacuate from what?  Volcanos? Blizzards? Earthquakes? Tornados?  

In deepest Idaho (truly the empty quarter) we learned that in this area was developed the technology for the development of nuclear submarines.  They had the first electric power from nuclear energy—in 1949!  Perhaps the Oregonians were prepared to escape nuclear waste?

And in rural Idaho, we passed a large area of brush fire on the prairie.  Many trucks and firemen were out in force putting it out.  We saw no flames, but the ground was smoking and the air smelled of fire.

It's late tonight (we're in Pocatello), but maybe I'll add a picture later.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Mt. Rainier




Today we went to the mountain—Mount Rainier. It was cloudy and chilly when we left the house, and there was only a 50-50 chance that the clouds would break, but we figured it was a chance worth taking.

First, we drove through a beautiful state park which featured an old-growth forest. How marvelous were the tall fir and pine and spruce trees.  The phrase from Robert Frost came to mind: "The woods are lovely, dark, and deep…" I tried to photograph this old forest, but it was more than the camera could take in. It filled our eyes and hearts. 

The park had an excellent Visitor Center, complete with some taxidermy exhibits. This was my first glimpse of a Cougar. She was quite beautiful—tawny fur, long lovely tail, and green eyes that would surely have been flashing had she been alive. I estimate that she was about the size of a large Labrador. Of course, being the animal nut that I am, I thought how wonderful to be able to snuggle up with this great cat! If she were tame, I'm sure she would enjoy a good ear rub, just like Grady. Those daydreams pale in the story of the Cougar that actually stalked Charlie., He was on a hike with a group and went back for something. As he was re-approaching the group, they began shouting at him.  they could see the Cougar stalking him—down in the stalking position.  He finally turned around and shouted and ran at the beast, and it turned and ran away. (Note: this is not what the park brochures advise!) Charlie observed that it was like any other cat—didn't want a hassle—just an easy snack! (Charlie, forgive me for telling your story, but my readership is not large, so you will still have it to tell!)

On to Sunrise Ranger Station, which sits at an altitude of about 6000 feet. When we arrived, on went the coats (cold and windy) and we piled out of the car to check out the surroundings. this is a prime place for viewing Mt. Rainier, but the mountain was totally socked in. 

Wow! In every direction—like a 360-degree IMAX—absolute beauty. In one direction was a set of very jagged black mountains, looking to my untrained eyes impossible to climb. In another direction was a very tall hill, or short mountain, that was entirely an alpine meadow. There were lovely clumps of wildflowers—yellow, white, lavender, red, magenta—and lots of little fir trees from a foot or so in height all the way up to 6 or 7 feet.  High on the mountain sat a magnificent Mountain Goat. (As soon as the ranger spotted it, he set up a telescope so all the visitors could have a better view.) The goat was lying down, probably chewing his cud, gazing out over the valley.

This was the finest ranger station, in terms of visitor interaction, that I have visited. It was full of plant and animal exhibits. Some of the little alpine flowers have roots that go down 5 or 6 feet to provide both water and support from the winds. Taxidermy exhibits included several small animals, a Golden Eagle, and 3 Cougars.  They also had a number of touchable pelts, bones, etc. on display and were interacting a lot with both children and adults.  Hooray for volunteers in the National Park Service who keep things going even though Bush has dramatically slashed park budgets!

It was cold, dropping down to 33 degrees at one point, and then it started blowing cold, peppery snow. Even on August 30 you may need coats in these mountains.

Then came the main event of the day, and it was a Superlative Event! The clouds started breaking up, and Mt. Rainier began to appear.  Gigantic, magnificent, 8000 feet higher above us. It was truly a spectacular sight. As the clouds retreated, Charlie pointed out the various routes he and Robin and Meredith had used when summiting the mountain.  It was truly awesome.

I had seen Mt. Rainier from the air once. As my plane flew over Washington I had observed a lot of snow-covered mountains and wondered which one was Rainier. But then, a huge mountain, seemingly right beside me, appeared, and there was no doubt that this was THE MOUNTAIN—Mt. Rainier.

From the ground, it is not only huge and beautiful, but you can see the glaciers and cliffs, and you realize that climbing this giant is no easy task. May try, fewer make the summit. Truly spectacular in every way.

As we drove home, we all agreed that the day would have been well spent even if the mountain had remained hidden, but how thrilling to actually get to see it.

We came home tired and happy.  Then Robin fired up the grill and we had a feast.  Visiting Robin and Charlie is just the best!





Friday, August 29, 2008

Two Days of Sloth and Sightseeing

Well, I ask you…if you could sit in a comfortable chair and look out at this beautiful forest, would you do anything else?

Okay, in spite of the beautiful vistas of the Vaughan house, we have bestirred ourselves to do a few things.  Yesterday we went to the Locks, built in 1917, that allow boats to move from Lake Washington into Puget Sound. Big Locks!  Really big boats—mostly pleasure, although we did see a tug boat and one large barge. Even more interesting were the fish ladders. They are actually a series of weirs through which the salmon pass from the sea, traverse the locks, and go to their native bodies of fresh water to spawn. This is not yet the time for the major run, but there were a number of different kind of salmon moving through. They are bigger than I expected.  

The whole establishment was encased in lovely gardens. Flowers love the Northwest! The gardens up here are beautiful.

We ended the day with dinner at a seaside (Puget Sound) restaurant, where I had possibly the best salmon in the world.  Yummy!  It was great to watch the boats in the sound, and we also enjoyed watching an eagle or two.  

We ended the evening with Obama's wonderful speech. He is the first presidential candidate I've been excited by in many, many years. I pray for his victory and the end to this 8 years of madness.

Today we went to the Boeing Museum of Flight. They had everything from a model of Leonardo's "Dream of Flight" to one of the special replicas of  the Wright Brother's plane. Three very exact copies were made of that plane for the Centennial. We also walked through an actual Concorde (such small seats and windows!) and one of the older Air Force Ones. There were also good exhibits on the history of space flight. I recommend this museum to anyone interested in the history of flight.

What a wonderful visit we are having with Charlie and Robin, and we are enjoying this beautiful city.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

We Really Did It!


Tuesday, August 26

After a wonderful time, we finally left Victoria behind.  Two ferry rides and some driving brought us to this lovely house on a hill top, surrounded with beautiful trees.  Visiting Charlie and Robin seems like being in a great mountain lodge.  Remember the "Hundred Acre Woods" of Winnie the Pooh?  One could imagine being there!

Last night was a first for us:  We went to a professional baseball game.  As the little kid in glasses who always made the third out when the bases were loaded, I was surprised that I was even willing to go to this game.  I'm getting more broad-minded in my old age.

Anyway, we had a great time.  Charlie asked me what surprised me most:  Well this may sound pretty stupid, but remember my history!  I was surprised at how huge the field was.  I was shocked to see how many directions a hit could go, and it was amazing how well the outfielders caught the hit balls and how far they could throw them—and even throw them to the right places!

We won!  Yea!  Allison joined us, so it was great to have a little time with her as well.  We're having a good visit and have some fun things planned.

Monday, August 25, 2008

What a Blooming Day!


Friday, August 25

I am sitting in this beautiful hotel, hearing the lovely Netherlands Carillon ringing just across the street.  The air is cool; the day has been sunny—a perfect day for the Butchart Gardens.

After a lovely drive around the island, seeing beautiful homes and parks on the sea, we drove over to the gardens.  What a magnificent place!  I didn't even take many pictures.  Where would I begin?  The gardens are overwhelming in a wonderful way.  Roses upon roses upon roses upon every other flower you can imagine!  We realized that Victoria is in "High Spring!"  There were Hydrangeas everywhere, in many colors.  Begonias and Fuscia and Zinnias and Lilies and Lobelia—even Salvia and the Everlasting Plant in my own garden.  The only thing missing were the spring bulbs.  It was a beautiful sight, and we enjoyed it immensely.

The day could hardly have been improved.

We are preparing to get up in the morning and ride the ferry to Seattle, where we will spend a few days with Charlie and Robin.  We're really looking forward to that visit.  I may not report every day, but will be back soon!

Meanwhile, we have LOVED our time in the wonderful city of Victoria!